Moscow is addictive. It is a city that defies description - brief,one-line platitudes are completely inadequate. It is a city that never sleeps，a city that captures the imagination by the intrigues of its recent and distant past, yet also holds many modern mysteries. It is a place where, every moment, you can see something new, something intriguing, something mystifying. It is unashamedly harsh and inhospitable. It is doggedly defiant of the comforts of the rest of Europe.
莫斯科无疑是迷人的。人类的语言在它的美丽面前显得如此苍白无力。简言之，平淡无奇的陈词滥调不适合用在它身上。莫斯科是个充满活力的城市，并拥有由遥远的历史所激发的一切想象和现代的神秘感。每一刻，你都能感觉到新奇、魅惑和神秘。同时，它又显得有点荒芜和冷淡，甚至是不近人情。总之，它拒绝着欧洲其它国家所拥有的舒适和安逸。

Moscow intimidates. Most tourists will give Russia's capitalonly a cursory glance, preferring to spend the bulk of their time in the grand, romantic northern city of St. Petersburg. Their memories of Moscow are of traffic jams, looming Soviet monstrosities and a city too large and daunting to try to discover. These problems are compounded by a severe lack of tourist infrastructure and the absence of any official tourist information. But those who make the extra effort to look beneath the surface of the city will uncover a remarkable and absorbing place.
莫斯科是恢弘大气、令人肃然其敬的。大多数游客只是匆匆一瞥，宁愿把更多的时间花在北部宏伟、浪漫的圣彼得堡上。他们对于莫斯科的印象只是拥挤的交通、苏维埃式的高楼以及空大得令人望而却步的城市。这些问题都是由于莫斯科旅游基础设施和旅游官方信息的匮乏所造成的。但对于那些穿越城市表相追求更深层次的人来说，莫斯科是一个非凡、迷人的地方。

Standing in Red Square is an awe-inspiring experience. On bitter, snow-swept nights and sunny summer days alike, you can feel its history surround you. Images of successive Soviet leaders standing astride Lenin's mausoleum while the military might of the Soviet Union is paraded past are still fresh in the memory. But look towards the dazzling St. Basil's Cathedral at the eastern end of the square and you delve even further into the past. You are taken to a time when Ivan the Terrible must have looked upon St. Basil's and recognized the beauty of that majestic cathedral, a beauty that made him decide to have the eyes of the architects gouged out because something so magnificent should never be created again.
站在红场上绝对是一次不同寻常的经历。在寒风刺骨、大雪纷飞的冬夜与艳阳高照的夏日，它的辉煌历史仿佛近在眼前触手可及。想象一下苏联的军队在广场进行庄严的阅兵仪式，前赴后继的苏联领导人站在列宁的陵墓前宣誓革命遗志，这些过往历历在目，记忆犹新。再看一下广场东部耀眼的圣巴索教堂，你将沉浸在更遥远的历史长河中。圣巴索教堂竣工后，沙皇伊凡四世被教堂的华丽炫目所震惊，为了避免有人创造出比它更耀眼的建筑，他竟下令将工匠们的眼睛弄瞎。

Then there is the Kremlin. With its majestic palace, proud churches, and treasure-filled armory, it takes at least half a day to explore. This is followed up with a cursory glance at the statue of Karl Marx in the Square of the Revolution and a few minutes of admiring contemplation of the grandeur of the Bolshoy Theater. Then there's the obligatory trip to the pedestrian Old Arbat street, lined with restaurants, souvenir stalls, and artists sketching portraits. The culturally-minded will visit the famous European art collection of the Pushkin Museum or the premier depository of Russian art, the Tretyakov Gallery. All that remains is a quick dash out to the Izmailovsky Park souvenir market to pick up some fur hats and Russian dolls and the standard tourist experience of Moscow is complete… but so much has been missed.
接下来就是克里姆林宫了。宏伟的宫殿、盛气凌人的教堂、珍贵的军械所，光是这些就至少要花上半天的时间才能观光完。然后就是去革命广场瞻仰马克思雕像，顺便去看看恢宏壮丽的波修瓦剧院。然后就是绝对不容错过的商业步行街——阿尔巴特大街。道路两边满是林立的餐馆、纪念品小摊、街头艺术家。而对文化感兴趣的人则一定要去著名的欧洲艺术博物馆——普希金博物馆和国家特列恰科夫博物馆。之后就要赶快冲去伊斯麦艺术公园的跳蚤市场去淘一些俄罗斯著名的皮帽还有玩偶，这才是标准而完整的俄罗斯游记。但除了上面这些，还是有很多地方值得一去。

Since Moscow is such an immense, sprawling place, the metro will become your best friend in further unmasking the city. Horrendous traffic and the absence of metered taxis (taxis are taken by flagging down any passing car and negotiating a fare) make the metro theonly real transportation option for tourists. Luckily Moscow's metro isone of the best in the world and is a treasure in itself.one trip costs a mere 13 rubles ($0.50). During peak hour, trains arrive every minute, though the unbelievable crowds make it best to avoid the system during these times.
莫斯科如此之大，它的地铁就成为了帮助你透过表象深入了解这个城市的最佳工具。可怕的交通以及少得可怜的计程车（靠信号旗停车以及要商议价钱的出租车）使得地铁成为人们的唯一选择。幸运的是，莫斯科的地铁是世界上最先进的，这本身就是一笔财富。一次仅仅只需十三卢布（0.5美元）。高峰时期，难以置信的拥挤人潮都涌向了地跌站，为了避免交通闭塞，这时候地铁是一分钟一班。

For a dose of modern history, head to Oktyabrskaya metro and take the short walk to Sculpture Park. This resting place of the unwanted relics of the Soviet past has the eerie feeling of a graveyard at dusk. Upon entrance, the first statue of note you will encounter is the foreboding likeness of Felix Dzerzhinsky, founder of the Vecheka, the KGB's predecessor. This statue stood for many years on Lubyanka Square, outside the KGB headquarters but was toppled in 1991. The park also houses an array of Lenins, a few Marxs, a couple of Stalins and various authors.
这个时候坐地铁去叶卡特琳堡，然后在雕塑公园里逛上一圈是不错的选择。这地方是过去苏维埃遗留下的，给人一种置身于墓地的诡异不安感。在入口处你最先看见的就是捷尔任斯基——挈卡的创立者、克格勃的先驱。雕像在克格勃总部外的卢比杨卡广场上屹立多年，在1991年被推倒。这个公园里还有列宁、马克思、斯大林以及许多著名作家的雕像。

Take a 20 minute ride south-west on the red line to Sportivnaya station and suddenly you are transported into another world. Here is the Novodevichy Monastery, built early in the 16th century. The peace and serenity of this white-walled complex is a welcome relief from the irrepressible energy of the city outside. The exquisite Bell Tower dates from the 17th century but the centerpiece of the monastery is the Smolensk Cathedral, which is decorated inside with magnificent 16th century frescoes and an array of icons.
乘坐西南方向的红线20分钟就到了思博提娜亚站，此时你就置身于另一个天地——建立于16世纪早期的新少女修道院。这个安静的白墙建筑物是人们远离喧嚣的都市、偷得浮生半日闲的好去处。相比较于17世纪的钟楼，内部以16世纪的圣像及壁画装饰的斯摩棱斯克修道院更为华丽。

Head next door to the Novodevichy Cemetery and visit the graves of some of Russia's greatest luminaries. Here lie the graves of great writers such as Nikolai Gogol, Anton Chekhov, Vladimir Mayakovsky and Mikhail Bulgakov. The politically-minded can appreciate the final resting places of Vyacheslav Molotov, Pyotr Kropotkin, Raisa Gorbacheva and Nadezhda Allilueva (the second wife of Josef Stalin). But perhaps the cemetery's biggest crowd-puller is the relatively demure tomb of Nikita Krushchev.
走近新圣女公墓可以瞻仰到很多俄国伟人。尼古拉·果戈里、安东·契诃夫、弗拉基米尔·马雅可夫斯基、米·布尔加科夫，这些伟大的作家都在此处安息。很多政治人物也长眠于此，如维亚切斯拉夫·莫洛托夫（前苏联外长）、彼得·克鲁鲍特金、赖莎·戈尔巴乔夫（戈尔巴乔夫的爱妻）、娜杰日达·阿利卢耶娃（斯大林的第二任妻子）。其中最引人瞩目的还应该是赫鲁晓夫庄严肃穆的陵墓了。

One more metro station to the south-west brings you to the base of Sparrow Hill. Take a walk up the lightly-forested hill to the summit for the best view possible of Moscow's skyline. This is a vibrant place - during the day it is packed with souvenir stalls and beatific brides and grooms having their wedding photos taken. At night Central Asian street food vendors abound, while students from nearby Moscow State University mull around drinking. Directly behind the summit stands the main university building, probably the most beautiful of the Seven Sisters – the seven Stalinist skyscrapers.
西南方向的地铁通向列宁山。悠然自得地登上这座被绿树覆盖的山顶，欣赏到莫斯科最美的风景，你会不禁心潮澎湃。白天，山上到处都是卖纪念品的小店和新婚燕尔拍照的身影。而当夜幕降临时，附近莫斯科国立大学的学生们纷纷两三个地聚在一起喝东西，中亚街上到处是卖小吃的小贩。而在大学建筑的后面就是令人叹为观止的“七姐妹”——七座斯大林式的摩天大楼。

A 15 minute ride from the city center south-east along the green line to Kolomenskoye station brings you to another of Moscow's hidden treasure troves. A sprawling estate situated on a bend in the Moscow River, Kolomenskoye is home to meandering streams, untouched forest, andone of the most striking churches you will ever see: the rocket-shaped Church of the Ascension, built in 1532. The whole estate is dotted with yet more churches, each at least 350 years old, and some beautiful 15th century gates and towers. Back on the metro and it's a further 20 minute ride to Tsaritsyno, another large, forested estate. The principal attraction here is the unfinished summer palace of Catherine the Great.
坐着从市中心向东南方向的绿线15分钟就到了古科罗缅斯克庄园站，此刻你置身于莫斯科的另一个隐藏的无价宝藏。高大的古科罗缅斯克庄园矗立在险峻的莫斯科河边，它是蜿蜒的小溪、郁郁葱葱的原始森林的源头，你在那能看见世界上最壮观的砖石结构教堂之一——1532年建立的火箭状的耶稣升天教堂。这里星罗密布着很多教堂，每一个都至少有350年的历史，还有很多15世纪的古门和城堡。回到地铁，20分钟就能到另一个森林产业区——察里津诺，它最大的吸引力就在于叶卡捷琳娜二世未建完的行宫。

The array of sights is endless – there are countless more monasteries and estates, delightful old churches and sights of Soviet era interest around the city – but all of these places are rooted in the past. The mystique of modern Moscow is as alluring as any of its history, and you can find it in the outlying suburbs. This is especially worthwhile in winter when a grey, looming sky and snow-covered streets perfectly complement the landscape of faceless concrete apartment blocks. There is a morbid beauty in these ugly, utilitarian Soviet-era buildings, housing their hordes of anonymous citizens. This sort of architecture certainly isn't unique to Moscow, or even to Russia, but nowhere else does it seem more appropriate, more fitting than here. You can take your pick of the outlying metro stations to find such a neighborhood, but probably Moscow's south-east and north-east are the best choices.
美景无边——无数的修道院和庄园、五彩斑斓的教堂和苏维埃式的风景遍布全城。但这一切都源于历史。现代莫斯科城毫不逊色于它的历史，和过去一样散发着无限魅力，在郊外你就可以感受到：在冬季，灰白、暗淡的天空和被白雪覆盖的大街与不知名的混凝土住宅区相映成趣。在这个居住着无数人的丑陋的、功利的苏维埃式建筑物里，有一种病态的妖娆在恣意生长。这种建筑在莫斯科，甚至在俄国都是司空见惯的，但没有其它任何一个地方如此这般地相得益彰。当你把目光再次投向地铁站找寻邻近的风景时，那么莫斯科的东南和东北部无疑是最好的选择。

You can find modern Moscow in the city's nightlife, where "face control" thugs stand guard at the capital's elite clubs, preventing paupers from pestering the pretentious people inside. Or at the bars and clubs that aren't reserved solely for models and the mega rich, which built up notorious reputations for their unrestrained decadence in the past decade. They might have become more subdued now, but still remain a veritable feast of pheromones and flesh.
从莫斯科的夜生活中你能够感受到它的现代气息，首都最有名的俱乐部门口站着全副武装、神情冷峻的打手，以防止叫花子进去乞讨而骚扰到里面那些自命不凡的人。而酒吧和夜总会则属于那些百万富翁与模特，纸醉金迷的堕落生活曾让他们声名狼藉。现在可能有所改善，却仍然能够真实感受到残留的那些诱惑和肉欲在空气中游荡。

You can also find modern Moscow in the streets. Stake a position on Moscow's central artery, Tverskaya, around the area where it intersects with the pedestrian street Kamergersky Pereulok, and observe. Black Mercedes and BMWs line the streets outside the city's office buildings. A crowd of people, clad in dark suits and their best dresses, await the opening of the doors at the Moscow Art Theater. On their short break, migrant construction workers from the former Soviet republics squat and stare at the passing crowds. They have been drawn towards the pulsating beacon of wealth that Moscow promises from far away and they persist in their work in spite of their squalid conditions and their lack of legal status which makes them easy prey for bribe-hungry police. Meanwhile beautiful young women promenade in pairs along the street, immaculately groomed and dressed, and pensioners sell useless wares to supplement their state stipend in what has become a ridiculously expensive city.
莫斯科的大街也展示着它的现代感。站在莫斯科的主大街——步行街交织的特维尔大街上四处看：黑色的梅赛德斯和宝马在办公楼前排列得整整齐齐；身着黑色风衣、打扮时尚的一群人在莫斯科艺术剧院门口等待进场；而从前苏维埃共和国的“建设者们”在短暂的休息时间里则蹲在路边，沉默地看着过往人群。他们对莫斯科许下的关于幸福生活的遥远承诺坚信不疑，仿佛那是指引他们人生前进方向的永不熄灭的灯塔，甚至在极其恶劣的生活环境以及没有法律地位而整天被腐败的警察追捕的前提下依旧坚持努力地工作；同时精心打扮的年轻貌美的女孩们成群结伴的徜徉在大街上，而一些靠国家补贴来生活的人们则在这个高消费的城市里通过贩卖一些无用的瓷器来补贴生活。